Until last night, “train station pizza” sounded like a death sentence. Cold pizza, sitting out under a white light and every possibility that it would make you shit your pants? For $5 a slice there’s a world where I would’ve been tempted – but it was just never an option. But I digress.
Tucked in between Central Station Light Rail & the buses of Eddy Ave, City Oltra is dishing up incredible pizzas with the savoury richness of it’s fresh ingredients with easy accessibility, whether you’re rushing to work, dreading a 1hr train trip home, or catching a game at Allianz Stadium
After debating to go to tried and tested favourites like Westwood Pizza or Bella Brutta, we went in for dinner at City Oltra before heading out for our evening plans. Here’s my review of City Oltra.
The Takeaway
- A pizza seriously worth missing your train for.
- City Oltra serves classic woodfired pizza and a deep-dish style square pizza across a wide range of bases (red sauce and white sauce), all topped with generous and flavourful ingredients
- Gluten-free and half-and-half options available for the pickier eaters.
- The staff are incredibly friendly and relaxed, with attentive service.
- City Oltra is also a wine bar with an extensive range of selections to choose from, and the snacks to complement it.
- The Salami (soppressata siciliana, pickled peppers, cheeses, red sauce and basil) for $38 was my favourite
Vibe & Atmosphere
We went on a spring Saturday night. Although it’s on a busier street with plenty of traffic around, City Oltra was quite intimate and homely. Warm lights, high ceilings and green walls filled with wine bottles and neo-retro posters made for a trendy yet familiar setting.
The Food
We got a square half-and-half pizza. Our chosen pizzas were Potato & Sausage (house fennel sausage, potato, onion cream, cheese, chives) and the Salami (soppressata siciliana, pickled peppers, cheeses, red sauce and basil). Before we even put hands on it, we drizzled the pizza with chili oil.
In total it was around $45. $42 for a square pizza and an additional $3 for the half-and-half option.
Potato & Sausage
house fennel sausage, potato, onion cream, cheese, chives
Price: $38 for a round pizza, or $42 for a square
Rating: 4/5
The first bite was so savoury and comforting from the sausage, onion cream and potato. No flavour really jumped out, it was a cohesive first bite interrupted only by the shatteringly crispy edges that fills the mouth with a caramelised cheese flavour. Strong notes of of rosemary and fennel resonate throughout each bite, but it definitely plays a supporting role to the wholesomeness of roast potato.
The dough was certainly not like a New York style of thin crust pizza. The square pizza dough was more bread-y. It was particularly light, but also just dense enough to complement it’s bold toppings with a fluffy crumb. For those craving bread – this pizza base is the one for you.
It loses points because I feel like it wasn’t salty enough, and the flavours tend to get quite uniform with each bite. The onion cream loses itself to the potato, chives and cheese, whereas the sausage isn’t prevalent enough to make it’s stamp into each bite. Some flaky sea salt on top would make the elements on this dish really pop.
Salami
soppressata siciliana, pickled peppers, cheeses, red sauce and basil
Price: $38 for a round pizza, or $42 for a square
Rating: 4.5/5
Spicy, salty soppressa salami plays second fiddle to the bright, acidic and subtly sweet tomato base. Supported by the same crispy square pizza base, it’s a happy marriage of flavour that makes this pizza one of my favourites.
Look, we all love pepperoni pizza. And I reckon I might piss some people off by saying this, but City Oltra’s Salami Pizza gives a lot of established pizzerias a run for their money. It’s just so well balalnced. Salami is so savoury, rich and salty, and the balance of the red sauce just forces your body to enter a flow state forcing lucky diners to choose their next bite before they even finish swallowing. In addition, at least half a basil plant is topped onto your pizza for a hit of contrasting herbal freshness.
If there was just a bit more salami on the pizza, this would be a perfect 5/5. I know I said balance was awesome, but at the end of the day I’m just a fat carnivore and I’d love some more salami.
Is City Oltra Worth It?
For 2 very (VERY) hungry diners, we split a $45 pizza and it’s definitely filled us up. They’re quite large, and quite filling because of the bread you’re getting for the square pizza. While the pies are more expensive than other options – I guarantee you’re leaving here full
Because of that, I’d say it’s definitely worth it.
And I’d love to come back for more of their starters, wine, pizza dips, and dessert!